Monday, July 27, 2015

March Shopping ~ Week#1/#6 ~ Garde Manger: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen

Garde Manger, published in 2008. The art and craft of the cold kitchen, published by the Culinary Institute of America, the book discusses the contemporary practice of Garde Manger with techniques and skills translated into words, pictures and recipes.

In the first chapter, The Professional Garde Manger, a brief history is given along with practices of a professional Garde Manger including education and equipment. In the past the term Garde Manger was used to identify a cold storage area, but has evolved to define an area of specialty in the cooking arts as well as the kitchen station used in the preparation of cold food.

The beginning of each section begins with information, techniques and equipment used in each chapter, followed by recipes. We begin with Cold Sauces and Cold Soups ~ first up are a few basics: vinaigrette, mayonnaise, dairy based sauces, salsa, purees and aspic, then recipes for a truffle vinaigrette,  a guava curry vinaigrette, tahini sauce, pesto, guacamole, hummus, an Asian dipping sauce and BBQ sauce. The soups include gazpacho, cold carrot, vichyssoise, various chilled fruit soups and a chilled edamame.

Salads are next with a photo chart of greens - both bitter and spicy,  another chart depicting a list and uses for many herbs, followed by another photo list of edible flowers, plus notes on the dressing and garnishing of salads. A few notable choices include Georgia peanut, Greek, hearts of artichoke, coleslaw, cucumber, several potato, couscous, panzanella, soba noodle, crab & avocado, grilled baby octopus, plus salads made with lobster, chicken, spinach and duck.

For Sandwiches we are given Croque Monsieur, soft shell crab, po-boys, paninis, felafel, duck confit with apples & brie, a New England lobster roll, pan bagnot, Saigon subs, muffuletta, bruschetta, crostini and of course, the classics ~ chicken, egg salad, watercress and cucumber. In Cured and Smoked Foods, salts are discussed along with dry cures, seasonings, brines, smokes and drying techniques.  A few of the dishes featured are Gravlax, pastrami cured salmon, corned beef, smoked salmon, beef jerky, smoked duck, bacon, Tasso, a whole smoked ham, pancetta and duck confit.

The chapter on Sausage begins with short notes on ingredients, spices & seasonings, equipment, techniques and stuffing casings before delving into the recipes. Offered up are a breakfast sausage, chorizo, venison, Italian, bratwurst, silverware, boudin, kielbasa, summer sausage, bologna, andouille, mortadella, salami, a blood sausage with apples and sausages made from lamb, pheasant and seafood.

Moving on we encounter Tartines, Pates, Galatines & Roulades, with a mini essay (with photos) on forcemeats (lean meat and fat emulsion), focusing on salt & seasonings, garnishes and the making of forcemeats. There are also detailed instructions on making a Pate en Croute and Foie Gras
(champagne & chicken liver). A few choices in the terrine section include venison, duck, sweetbread & foie gras, poached salmon with lemon, lobster and mushroom, while a few of the galatines are pheasant, roasted duck and chicken.

The Cheese chapter starts with the cheese making process, classification & uses of cheeses and notes on a cheese service presentation. The cheese selections include mascarpone, whole milk ricotta, Fromage Blanc, Queso, creme fraiche and mozzarella. Appetizers and Hors d' Ouevres opens beef carpaccio, followed by escabeche of tuna, strudels & empanadas, smoked duck tart, shrimp cakes, lobster & truffle salad, foie gras in brioche, profiteroles, cheese sticks, Yorkshire pudding, steak tartare, stuffed grape leaves, spanakopita, dim sum, tempura, sushi and spiced mixed nuts.

Condiments, Crackers and Pickles delves into various mustards, chutney, relishes, wasabi paste,
pickled red onions and pickled ginger, with sesame crackers and potato crisps and a few tips for flavored oils. Buffet Presentations gives the reader a few tips from the concept/theme, menu, linens, dish & glassware to enhancing the food presentation and replenishment methods.

The final chapter, Basic Recipes,  contains stocks, butters, doughs & pastry, croutons, bouquet Garni, curry powder, Cajun spice blend, Asian 5 spice blend and herbs de Provnce.


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